Filo pastry

Layers built by stacking paper-thin sheets with fat between them rather than by folding — the other way to make a laminated texture, and a much older one.

Laminated doughSteamadvanced

Also called phyllo (US), filo (UK), yufka (INTERNATIONAL) — The related Turkish sheet, generally thicker than commercial filo.

Filo reaches a layered result by a completely different route from puff pastry, and confusing the two accounts for most of the trouble people have with it.

PUFF PASTRY ENCLOSES A BLOCK OF FAT AND FOLDS. Filo contains almost no fat in the dough at all: it is a strong, well-worked, well-rested dough stretched or rolled until it is translucent, and the fat is brushed BETWEEN the finished sheets as they are stacked. The layers are therefore made by hand at assembly rather than multiplied by folding.

THE LIFT IS SMALL AND THE TEXTURE IS DIFFERENT. Puff pastry’s steam pushes thick layers apart into a tall flaky structure. Filo’s sheets are already separated by fat and are so thin that they simply crisp; the result shatters rather than flakes, and a filo bake is a fraction of the height of a puff one.

DRYING OUT IS ITS DEFINING PRACTICAL PROBLEM. A sheet that thin loses water to the air in minutes and becomes brittle and unusable. Keeping the stack covered while working is not fussiness — it is the difference between sheets that lie down and sheets that crack.

THE DOUGH IS STRONG, NOT SHORT. Stretching a dough to translucency requires a well-developed, well-rested gluten network, which is the opposite of what shortcrust wants. This is why filo is difficult to make at home and why the commercial product is genuinely good: the machine does something a domestic kitchen finds very hard.

Filo belongs to a broad tradition of thin stretched-dough pastries across the eastern Mediterranean, the Balkans, Turkey and the Levant. BakeHQ describes the technique and does not assign it to a single national origin.

What it should be like

Structure
Many separate paper-thin crisp layers, not a risen flaky block
Crust
Shatters rather than flakes
Handling
Dries and cracks within minutes if left uncovered

Where it comes from

The eastern Mediterranean, the Balkans, Turkey and the Levant

Professional consensus

Agreed by professional bakers and baking-science texts, with an accepted mechanism, though not isolated by controlled experiment.

Stretched paper-thin pastry is made across a broad region under several related names and BakeHQ does not attribute it to one of them. Yufka, the related Turkish sheet, is generally thicker.

More in baking history and culture.

Why filo goes soggy, and why that is not the same problem as a soggy tart base

Filo has almost no fat in the dough, so it has very little intrinsic resistance to moisture — what protects it is the fat brushed between the sheets and the fact that it is crisped rather than merely baked.

A filo bake with a wet filling therefore softens from the inside, and it softens fast. The usual fixes are to reduce the filling’s water before assembly, to brush the layers properly rather than sparingly, and to add more sheets between filling and base than seems necessary.

It also goes soft on standing in a way puff pastry does at a slower rate, because there is less structure holding the crisped layers apart. Filo bakes are generally best soon after baking, and reheating in a dry oven restores more than it does for most pastries.

Related

Part of

  • Pastry

    Layered pastry, reached by stacking stretched sheets rather than by folding fat into dough.

Things that go wrong

  • Soggy pastry base

    Filo has almost no fat in the dough to resist moisture, so it softens from the inside faster than short pastry does.

What this product needs done

  • Structure building

    The opposite of shortcrust: filo needs a strong well-rested network to be stretched to translucency at all.

  • Hydration

    A well-hydrated dough is what stretches without tearing.

Characteristic ingredients

  • Bread flour

    Strength is what allows the stretching.

  • Water

    A well-hydrated dough stretches; a dry one tears.

  • Olive oil

    Brushed between sheets in many traditions; butter in others.

  • Salt

    Standard.

Techniques involved

  • Kneading

    A strong well-worked dough is what can be stretched thin.

  • Lamination

    Layers built by stacking rather than by folding — the same end by a different route.

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