Sponge cake

A cake raised principally by air whisked into egg, which makes it the category where technique matters more than formulation.

Foam batterMechanical aerationChemical leaveningintermediate

Also called victoria sponge (UK), genoise (INTERNATIONAL), sponge (UK), foam cake (US)

A sponge is a cake whose lift comes substantially from air beaten into eggs, rather than from a chemical leavener alone.

That single fact explains the method. The eggs and sugar are whisked to a foam that holds a visible ribbon; the flour is folded rather than stirred, because stirring collapses the foam that is doing the work; and the batter goes into the oven promptly, because the foam is not stable indefinitely.

A true genoise uses no chemical leavener at all and relies entirely on the whisked foam and on steam. The everyday creamed sponge — the Victoria — sits between the two, using creamed butter and sugar to trap air and baking powder to insure it.

Structure is set by egg protein coagulating and starch gelatinising, in a batter deliberately low in developed gluten. This is why sponge recipes specify a soft, low-protein flour and why overmixing produces something closer to bread.

What it should be like

Structure
Fine, even, open crumb
Volume
High rise relative to the batter weight
Tenderness
Tender, with little chew

Why a sponge sinks in the middle

A sponge that rises and then sinks has set its edges before its centre. The classic causes are opening the oven early, which drops the temperature at the moment the structure is still liquid; underbaking, so the centre never sets at all; and too much leavener, which inflates the batter faster than the protein and starch can build something to hold it.

The last is the least intuitive and the most common. More baking powder does not make a taller cake — past a point it makes a cake that rises spectacularly and collapses, because the gas outruns the structure.

Related

Part of

  • Cake

    The cake family’s reference product.

What this product needs done

  • Structure building

    Egg protein setting, with gelatinised starch alongside it. Gluten is actively unwanted, which is why sponge recipes call for a soft flour.

  • Aeration

    THE DEFINING REQUIREMENT. A sponge is raised by air beaten into egg or into creamed butter and sugar. A chemical leavener may insure it and does not replace it.

  • Gas retention

    A batter viscous enough to hold the foam it was given until the protein sets.

  • Hydration

    Egg and milk supply it. A sponge batter is poured, and it needs enough liquid to pour.

  • Gluten inhibition

    Fat and sugar both restrain gluten. A sponge with developed gluten is bread.

Techniques this product depends on

  • Whisking to a foam

    A sponge is raised by air beaten into egg. Owning eggs is not owning a foam, and a sponge whose eggs were stirred rather than whisked is a flat, dense cake.

  • Folding

    The flour is folded into the foam, not stirred. Stirring collapses the air that is doing the lifting.

Techniques involved

  • Lining a tin

    A sponge is baked in a tin and a sponge that tears on release has lost the structure it had. The fault is in the preparation rather than the formula.

  • Softening butter

    A creamed sponge depends on butter in a plastic state. Butter melted to hurry it along cannot hold air, and the cake rises less however long it is beaten.

Things that go wrong

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