Banana bread

A chemically leavened quick bread whose defining ingredient is also the reason it goes wrong — fruit purée is a liquid, and most people do not weigh it.

Pourable batterChemical leaveningbeginner

Also called banana loaf (UK), quick bread (US)

Banana bread is a quick bread: a poured batter raised by chemical leavening, mixed minimally and baked in a loaf tin.

It behaves like a cake and is named like a bread, and the confusion matters because the method is the cake one — combine wet and dry, mix until just combined, bake. Working it further develops gluten and produces the dense, tough, tunnelled loaf that is the commonest complaint about it.

The bananas are a substantial part of the liquid, and their quantity varies enormously: three bananas can differ by half again in weight, and riper fruit is both wetter and sweeter. A batter that is too wet cannot support itself and sinks in the middle. This is the rare case where weighing an ingredient most people count is the single most effective improvement.

Ripeness is not only about sweetness. As bananas ripen their starch converts to sugar, which changes both the flavour and how much structure the fruit contributes.

What it should be like

Structure
Moist, close crumb without tunnels
Tenderness
Tender — chew indicates overmixing

Why banana bread comes out dense

Three causes account for nearly all of it, and they are distinguishable.

Overmixing gives a loaf that is dense and slightly chewy with visible tunnels running up through it. Too much banana gives one that is dense and wet, often sunken, and gummy near the base. Exhausted or insufficient leavening gives one that is dense and dry, evenly so, with no tunnels and no sinking.

The texture at the base is the most useful discriminator: gummy points to excess liquid, uniform and dry points to the leavener.

Related

Part of

  • Cake

    Named a bread and built like a cake. Filed by method, because the method is what predicts how it behaves.

What this product needs done

  • Structure building

    Egg protein and gelatinised starch. Developed gluten here is the fault, not the structure.

  • Aeration

    Baking powder or bicarbonate of soda. There is no fermentation and no whisked foam to fall back on.

  • Gas retention

    A batter thick enough to hold its own gas without a gluten network.

  • Hydration

    The banana purée is a substantial part of the liquid, and it is the part nobody weighs — which is why the same recipe produces very different loaves.

  • Gluten inhibition

    'Mix until just combined’ is a requirement for gluten NOT to develop, and the tunnels in a dense banana bread are what happens when it does.

Techniques this product depends on

  • Folding

    The requirement is for gluten NOT to develop. 'Mix until just combined’ is a technique, and the tunnels in a dense banana loaf are what happens when it is ignored.

Techniques involved

  • Lining a tin

    A loaf tin with high sides and a long bake is where lining most often fails, usually at the corners.

Things that go wrong

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